One of the frustrations that come with 3D printing is gaining proper adhesion between your print and your print bed. There are tons of ways to correct this problem. Here are some of the techniques we suggest to obtain proper adhesion between your object and build plate. The first thing to recognize is what type of build plate your printer has. The most common are aluminum and glass. These beds can either be heated or not. Heated build plates not only give better adhesion to the print but also allows for the user to print with a broad variety of material.

Here at PicoTurbine glue sticks are slowly becoming our best friend. We have used painters tape, kapton tape, hairspray and much more but nothing has compared to good old glue. Elmers glue is ideal due to its non-toxic properties allowing use on uncovered print beds as well. Other than focusing on the print there are other tweaks that can be done to obtain proper adhesion.

The following information was provided by the New Jersey Technology and Engineering Education Association on what they find to be some effective ways of obtaining proper adhesion with your prints.

 It is important to take care of and know your nozzle. This little thing is doing a lot of the hard work. It is upwards of 275°C and has hundreds of meters forced through it. So, keep it clean. The outside of the nozzle will eventually get dirty and all you need to do is scrap off the big things. Our goal is really to make sure there isn’t anything interfering with with the very end. If you want to get fancy a company call E3D makes a little silicone sleeve to prevent this. Next, make sure there isn’t anything bad going on inside of the hot end. If there isn’t a need to take it apart then don’t. I try really hard not to take the hot end off of my printers. But, what you can do is prevent anything bad from going into the printer. This is as simple as adding a little filament cleaner (sponge) to wipe off any dust or dirt before it enters the hot end. This works great to increase the longevity of the printer.
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  Knowing you nozzle comes in two forms. The first and easies to understand is whether or not your nozzle is level to the bed. The standard trick is taking a piece of paper and working it until there is just a bit of drag. This is great to start but I have never had this be the only think I have had to do. The best thing for me is to watch the first layer like a hawk and adjust the bed until I see each line of filament combining with the other. What make this easier is a flat bed. That is why I prefer glass.
  The second factor is knowing the diameter of the nozzle in relationship to the print layers. I have been fortunate to not have to worry about this but if you start looking into it you’ll find that there are ratios to how big your nozzle is to the layer height to the first layer height (this should be bigger to promote adhesion) and so forth and so on. It gets intense very fast and I would imagine if you are getting into this you have your prints pretty dialed in and are looking to push their limits.

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The final piece of information that we would like to share is knowing what filament you are using. Different materials print at different heat levels. Not knowing what temperature to set your print for can cause little to almost no adhesion. Almost no filament is the same but they all do share one commonality and that is how to store them. Filament needs to be dry; storing in a cool dry location is ideal especially if you open a pack of filament and do not use it right away. Poor storage of filament can cause for poor adhesion to the build plate and may even cause a clog in your nozzle.

 

To read more tips from NJTEEA click the link!